Saturday, February 10, 2018

Your guide to a delicious vegan Christmas

To non-vegans, the idea of a plant-based Christmas dinner may smack of Scrooge crouched over a miserly candle, sucking on a single slice of tofu. There are few holidays more dedicated to tearing up the five-a-day-guidelines than this one, so if you take away not only the meat but the cream, then what's left?

Actually, this year there's a lot left, as supermarkets are increasingly wise to the idea that plenty of vegans want to stuff their faces, too. With estimates that between 2 and 12% of British people now follow a vegetarian diet, it's unsurprising that a vegetarian Christmas is well catered for by shops, but the rise of the “flexitarian” means that even non-vegans may buy and try vegan now, if it's an option. It takes a bit of supermarket-hopping and a familiarity with an online checkout to do it, but with a little effort, there's now a gluttonous array of choice.

Christmas dinner is a roast with bits added on, and the majority of a roast is vegan anyway. There are a few tweaks that may need to be made – use oil to roast the potatoes instead of fat; swap butter for olive oil in the mash, and leave honey off the parsnips and carrots (you could swap in maple or agave syrup for sweetness).

When it comes to the star of the show, the amount of effort you're willing to put in will dictate your centrepiece. The ever-reliable Linda McCartney range's new “roast beef” joint comes with a boozy-tasting red wine glaze and a remarkably beef-like flavour, which is great for vegans who like the taste of meat but not the methods, though it may be too meaty for some.

Fry's soy and quinoa Country Roast is a solid herby veggie roast, while Tofurky's turkey and stuffing is a respectable substitute for the real thing. At the more artisan end of the faux butchers – there's an emerging meat-substitute industry that reminds me of the craft brewery explosion – then Irish company Moodley Manor offers top-end luxury in its mammoth meat-free roast, with a sausage and breadcrumb stuffing inside that tastes like the real deal, while Scotland's Sgaia Meats is serving up a new and limited version of their signature “mheat” vegan roast wrapped in maple-glazed rashers and filled with orange, hazelnut and pancetta stuffing.

If you're a no-meat-substitutes kind of vegan, the hardy nut roast is a perennial stand-in and most major supermarkets have a vegetable-based centrepiece, if you don't fancy making your own. Ocado has a stuffed butternut squash made by Irish company Dee's, while Tesco is pushing the boat out with cauliflower wellington.

But the real joy of Christmas is in the trimmings, otherwise it would just be an ordinary Sunday. You can make bread sauce with a non-dairy milk, though most are likely to be too sweet – unsweetened almond milk is a good bet. For pig-free pigs in blankets, pick a fakon (fake bacon) and a brand of vegan mini sausage, and make up your own (I'd go for Moodley Manor's bacon on Linda McCartney's cocktail sausages). Ocado stocks Dee's vegan sausage stuffing; while on the sauce front, most cranberry sauces will be vegan, and for the fancier meat-avoider in your life, there's also Tideford organic vegan gravy with red miso.

It's surprisingly easy to avoid a fruit platter at dessert time, too. Asda's own-brand mince pies are vegan, as are Waitrose Essential mince pies, and today dairy-free ice creams are available in most supermarkets. Or, if you're the kind of person who pours cold Bailey's on a steaming mince pie, then there's even a vegan version of that – slosh on the gluggable Baileys Almande, available in Whole Foods, while sipping M&S's Gold Crème Brûlée Liqueur.

Monday, January 8, 2018

Zucchini and feta fritters with yoghurt dipping sauce

These fritters are a tasty snack for vegetarians and carnivores alike. They're extremely versatile too – I love them with poached eggs for a weekend brunch or paired with a herb and tomato salad for a more substantial meal.

Yoghurt dipping sauce
150g (½ cup) Greek-style yoghurt
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped

Stir all the ingredients in a bowl to combine. Season to taste.

Cover and refrigerate for the flavours to develop while you make the fritters.

Zucchini and feta fritters
3 zucchini (courgettes), cut into julienne or coarsely grated
1 small handful coarsely chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves
1 small handful coarsely chopped dill
1 small handful coarsely chopped mint leaves
1 spring onion (scallion), thinly sliced diagonally
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus lemon wedges to serve
100g feta cheese, coarsely crumbled
3 eggs, lightly beaten
135g (scant 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour
¼ tsp baking powder
Olive oil, for shallow-frying

Combine the zucchini, herbs, spring onion, lemon zest and feta in a bowl and season generously.

Stir in the eggs, flour and baking powder and season with salt and pepper.

Heat about 3cm of olive oil in a deep-sided frying pan over a medium–high heat and check the temperature by adding a little spoonful of the fritter mixture. If the mixture bubbles and rises to the surface, the oil is ready.

Add rough tablespoons of the mixture in batches to the oil and fry, turning occasionally, for 2–3 minutes until golden brown (be careful as hot oil may spit).

Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well on paper towels. Season to taste and serve hot with the yoghurt dipping sauce. Squeeze over lemon wedges to taste.

Tuesday, December 19, 2017

Chipolatas and bread sauce recipe

The best bits of Christmas dinner.

The recipe
Peel, then slice in half, 4 medium shallots. Set a wide, shallow pan over a medium heat, add the shallots, then let them soften and colour to a pale gold.

Place 8 plump, herby chipolata sausages among the shallots and let them colour on all sides. Lift out the sausages and keep them warm.

Pour 600ml of full cream milk into the pan, add 2 bayleaves, 4 cloves, a few sprigs of thyme (lemon thyme if you can get it) and bring almost to the boil. Lower the heat and leave to simmer for 3 minutes then stir in 150g fresh breadcrumbs, salt and coarsely ground black pepper, 1 tbsp of grain mustard and 3 tbsp of chopped parsley. Stirring regularly, let the bread sauce thicken and simmer for few minutes.

Warm a little cranberry sauce in a small pan.

Serve the sausages with the bread sauce and a spoonful of cranberry sauce. Enough for 2.

The trick
Creamy, generously seasoned bread sauce and chipolata sausages are the highlight of my Christmas dinner. But the sauce stands or falls by its seasoning. Soft, sweet onions or shallots, bay leaves, cloves and plenty of salt and pepper are to my mind essential. Be lavish with them.

The watchpoint here is to keep the sauce moving in the pan, if you don’t stir almost continuously it will stick and burn.

The twist
Bacon, streaky and smoked, is a fine addition here, bringing with it even more of the essence of a Christmas feast. Add bits of bacon, cut into stamp-sized pieces, as you are browning the sausages. The more crisply you cook the bacon the better.

A few tough herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, would work their magic here, too, finely chopped and stirred in with the cloves.