To non-vegans, the idea of a plant-based Christmas dinner may smack of Scrooge crouched over a miserly candle, sucking on a single slice of tofu. There are few holidays more dedicated to tearing up the five-a-day-guidelines than this one, so if you take away not only the meat but the cream, then what's left?
Actually, this year there's a lot left, as supermarkets are increasingly wise to the idea that plenty of vegans want to stuff their faces, too. With estimates that between 2 and 12% of British people now follow a vegetarian diet, it's unsurprising that a vegetarian Christmas is well catered for by shops, but the rise of the “flexitarian” means that even non-vegans may buy and try vegan now, if it's an option. It takes a bit of supermarket-hopping and a familiarity with an online checkout to do it, but with a little effort, there's now a gluttonous array of choice.
Christmas dinner is a roast with bits added on, and the majority of a roast is vegan anyway. There are a few tweaks that may need to be made – use oil to roast the potatoes instead of fat; swap butter for olive oil in the mash, and leave honey off the parsnips and carrots (you could swap in maple or agave syrup for sweetness).
When it comes to the star of the show, the amount of effort you're willing to put in will dictate your centrepiece. The ever-reliable Linda McCartney range's new “roast beef” joint comes with a boozy-tasting red wine glaze and a remarkably beef-like flavour, which is great for vegans who like the taste of meat but not the methods, though it may be too meaty for some.
Fry's soy and quinoa Country Roast is a solid herby veggie roast, while Tofurky's turkey and stuffing is a respectable substitute for the real thing. At the more artisan end of the faux butchers – there's an emerging meat-substitute industry that reminds me of the craft brewery explosion – then Irish company Moodley Manor offers top-end luxury in its mammoth meat-free roast, with a sausage and breadcrumb stuffing inside that tastes like the real deal, while Scotland's Sgaia Meats is serving up a new and limited version of their signature “mheat” vegan roast wrapped in maple-glazed rashers and filled with orange, hazelnut and pancetta stuffing.
If you're a no-meat-substitutes kind of vegan, the hardy nut roast is a perennial stand-in and most major supermarkets have a vegetable-based centrepiece, if you don't fancy making your own. Ocado has a stuffed butternut squash made by Irish company Dee's, while Tesco is pushing the boat out with cauliflower wellington.
But the real joy of Christmas is in the trimmings, otherwise it would just be an ordinary Sunday. You can make bread sauce with a non-dairy milk, though most are likely to be too sweet – unsweetened almond milk is a good bet. For pig-free pigs in blankets, pick a fakon (fake bacon) and a brand of vegan mini sausage, and make up your own (I'd go for Moodley Manor's bacon on Linda McCartney's cocktail sausages). Ocado stocks Dee's vegan sausage stuffing; while on the sauce front, most cranberry sauces will be vegan, and for the fancier meat-avoider in your life, there's also Tideford organic vegan gravy with red miso.
It's surprisingly easy to avoid a fruit platter at dessert time, too. Asda's own-brand mince pies are vegan, as are Waitrose Essential mince pies, and today dairy-free ice creams are available in most supermarkets. Or, if you're the kind of person who pours cold Bailey's on a steaming mince pie, then there's even a vegan version of that – slosh on the gluggable Baileys Almande, available in Whole Foods, while sipping M&S's Gold Crème Brûlée Liqueur.
Showing posts with label delicious. Show all posts
Showing posts with label delicious. Show all posts
Saturday, February 10, 2018
Thursday, July 20, 2017
Five delicious French desserts that only require a few ingredients
There are French desserts in the vicinity of which you dare not breathe, lest they crumble, deflate, or melt with your disturbance. Quelle horreur! These are the soufflés (all that swell), the puff pastry (all those layers), the petits fours (all the microscopic artistry), the yule logs (all that fake dirt). And please don't get my started on the precious macarons.
Pastry cream, piping bags, Paris Brest, pageantry!
On an ambitious day, I may, er, essaie to make an éclair or a pain au chocolat at home, but throughout that entire journey, I'll know in my heart of hearts that I should have saved time and tears and visited the pâtissiers at the pâtisserie.
These five desserts are not that kind, however. They're low-maintenance (relatively speaking), forgiving, et très facile. They're homey enough to, well, make at home — and make well at home — without taking up your entire afternoon, but they're still delicious enough to impress a guest or two after a soirée.
And — here's the kicker! — they all have just five ingredients, none of which are obscure or particular fancy. Hip hip! (Okay, that's un petite fib — some have six! So sue me.)
Sans further adieu, the sweet stuff. Ranked from easy to difficult and from quick to time-consuming. Find more recipe details below.
1. THE DESTINY OF YOUR PRECIOUS SUMMER FRUITS
Clafoutis = Fruit + Eggs + Flour + Sugar + Milk
From David Lebovitz, a marshal of French desserts, comes the simplest and fastest treat on this list: clafoutis, a puffed, pancake-y fruit dessert that I might call the French cousin of the Dutch baby were I to get all EU in this article.
All you need is a blender, or a powerful whisking arm, and 45 minutes. (You don't even need a cherry pitter if you've got a bottle and a straw — or if don't mind giving your dentist anxiety.)
Blend some flour, sugar, eggs, and milk until smooth, adding vanilla bean, almond or vanilla extract, or even liqueur like kirsch or amaretto as you see fit, then pour this batter over the cherries that you've scattered in the baking dish. Set a timer for 45 minutes.
As the clafoutis bakes, the batter puffs, subsuming the cherries; it says eggy and spongey in the middle while crisping and browning along the perimeter — and that textural dichotomy certainly means you must try at least one scoop from each area.
2. THE I-NEED-CAKE-NOW CAKE
Yogurt Cake = Eggs + Yogurt + Flour + Sugar + Oil
You don't even have to cream butter and sugar — or get out the measuring cups. If you use two 4-ounce tubs of yogurt, you can use those as your guide: Add 1 1/2 tubs of sugar, 4 tubs of flour, and 1 scant tub of vegetable oil.
This cake may be foolproof, but you will want to be careful not to over-mix the batter and to monitor the cake so it's neither over- nor under-baked. And if you're looking to give your cake some flare, try modifying it as you would pound cake. Or take a cue from Dorie Greenspan, who perfumes her sugar with lemon zest before mixing it into the other ingredients.
3. THE SHATTERINGLY CRISP SANDWICH COOKIE
Pailes = Puff Pastry + Eggs + Sugar + Flour + Jam
You've seen a palmier (call it an elephant ear, if you wish). But get a bit more involved with your folding, slicing, and positioning, and you can transform that same sheet of puff pastry (store-bought, bien sûr!) into the fancy-looking sandwich cookies known as pailles, meaning "straws."
You'll roll the puff pastry into a big square, then fold it in half two times, being sure to brush it with egg wash and sprinkle it with sugar between each fold for maximum caramelization. Next, you'll slice the folded pastry into thin fingers, which you'll then reunite into groups of three. Before putting the cookies in the oven, you'll cover them with a sheet of parchment paper and an upside-down cooling rack so that they bake more up than out. Halfway through baking, you'll remove those weights, press the cookies with a spatula, and flip them. Sounds like a lot of work — but it's more assembly than anything else.
Once the cookies are cool, you'll sandwich them with jam (or, bonne idée, lemon curd) and dust them with confectioners' sugar. And finally, gather your napkins. "The pastries are very brittle, and the sweet jam is very soft, so that when you bite into them, there's always a little ooze and lot of crackle and crumbs," writes Dorie Greenspan in Baking Chez Moi. A welcome mess!
4. FLAVOR OF CHOCOLATE BAR, FLUFF OF MARSHMALLOW
Chocolate Mousse = Chocolate + Eggs + Sugar + Cream
No funny business here: This chocolate mousse is simply melted chocolate that's thickened with egg yolks and lightened with whipped egg whites. Like your favorite chocolate bar frolicked among the clouds.
If you're comfortable whipping egg whites and incorporating them gently, as to not deflate that hard-earned air, then the recipe — which is from Dorie Greenspan's Around My French Table and has been published on NPR and in Bon Appétit — will be a cinch. Perhaps that's because Dorie, when she implored her friend Martine for the ingredients and instructions of her favorite mousse, was handed a Nestlé chocolate bar: All of the information was on the back.
5. CARAMELODY
Crème Caramel = Sugar + Milk + Cream + Eggs + Vanilla Extract
Okay, you daredevils: This one's for you. It's the most challenging dessert in our quintet because you have to make caramel and custard and endure a 12-hour chilling period. And once that's all squared away, you must then invert the crèmes and cross your fingers that they slide out of the ramekins in good shape. If that doesn't make your heart rate increase, might I suggest bungee jumping?
But the results are worth it: a quivering pudding with a waterfall of caramel that sweetens every bite. To take the recipe a step further, infuse your cream — with crushed cardamom pods, orange zest, chopped coffee beans, Earl Grey tea leaves, or fresh herbs — before you begin.
Pastry cream, piping bags, Paris Brest, pageantry!
On an ambitious day, I may, er, essaie to make an éclair or a pain au chocolat at home, but throughout that entire journey, I'll know in my heart of hearts that I should have saved time and tears and visited the pâtissiers at the pâtisserie.
These five desserts are not that kind, however. They're low-maintenance (relatively speaking), forgiving, et très facile. They're homey enough to, well, make at home — and make well at home — without taking up your entire afternoon, but they're still delicious enough to impress a guest or two after a soirée.
And — here's the kicker! — they all have just five ingredients, none of which are obscure or particular fancy. Hip hip! (Okay, that's un petite fib — some have six! So sue me.)
Sans further adieu, the sweet stuff. Ranked from easy to difficult and from quick to time-consuming. Find more recipe details below.
1. THE DESTINY OF YOUR PRECIOUS SUMMER FRUITS
Clafoutis = Fruit + Eggs + Flour + Sugar + Milk
From David Lebovitz, a marshal of French desserts, comes the simplest and fastest treat on this list: clafoutis, a puffed, pancake-y fruit dessert that I might call the French cousin of the Dutch baby were I to get all EU in this article.
All you need is a blender, or a powerful whisking arm, and 45 minutes. (You don't even need a cherry pitter if you've got a bottle and a straw — or if don't mind giving your dentist anxiety.)
Blend some flour, sugar, eggs, and milk until smooth, adding vanilla bean, almond or vanilla extract, or even liqueur like kirsch or amaretto as you see fit, then pour this batter over the cherries that you've scattered in the baking dish. Set a timer for 45 minutes.
As the clafoutis bakes, the batter puffs, subsuming the cherries; it says eggy and spongey in the middle while crisping and browning along the perimeter — and that textural dichotomy certainly means you must try at least one scoop from each area.
2. THE I-NEED-CAKE-NOW CAKE
Yogurt Cake = Eggs + Yogurt + Flour + Sugar + Oil
You don't even have to cream butter and sugar — or get out the measuring cups. If you use two 4-ounce tubs of yogurt, you can use those as your guide: Add 1 1/2 tubs of sugar, 4 tubs of flour, and 1 scant tub of vegetable oil.
This cake may be foolproof, but you will want to be careful not to over-mix the batter and to monitor the cake so it's neither over- nor under-baked. And if you're looking to give your cake some flare, try modifying it as you would pound cake. Or take a cue from Dorie Greenspan, who perfumes her sugar with lemon zest before mixing it into the other ingredients.
3. THE SHATTERINGLY CRISP SANDWICH COOKIE
Pailes = Puff Pastry + Eggs + Sugar + Flour + Jam
You've seen a palmier (call it an elephant ear, if you wish). But get a bit more involved with your folding, slicing, and positioning, and you can transform that same sheet of puff pastry (store-bought, bien sûr!) into the fancy-looking sandwich cookies known as pailles, meaning "straws."
You'll roll the puff pastry into a big square, then fold it in half two times, being sure to brush it with egg wash and sprinkle it with sugar between each fold for maximum caramelization. Next, you'll slice the folded pastry into thin fingers, which you'll then reunite into groups of three. Before putting the cookies in the oven, you'll cover them with a sheet of parchment paper and an upside-down cooling rack so that they bake more up than out. Halfway through baking, you'll remove those weights, press the cookies with a spatula, and flip them. Sounds like a lot of work — but it's more assembly than anything else.
Once the cookies are cool, you'll sandwich them with jam (or, bonne idée, lemon curd) and dust them with confectioners' sugar. And finally, gather your napkins. "The pastries are very brittle, and the sweet jam is very soft, so that when you bite into them, there's always a little ooze and lot of crackle and crumbs," writes Dorie Greenspan in Baking Chez Moi. A welcome mess!
4. FLAVOR OF CHOCOLATE BAR, FLUFF OF MARSHMALLOW
Chocolate Mousse = Chocolate + Eggs + Sugar + Cream
No funny business here: This chocolate mousse is simply melted chocolate that's thickened with egg yolks and lightened with whipped egg whites. Like your favorite chocolate bar frolicked among the clouds.
If you're comfortable whipping egg whites and incorporating them gently, as to not deflate that hard-earned air, then the recipe — which is from Dorie Greenspan's Around My French Table and has been published on NPR and in Bon Appétit — will be a cinch. Perhaps that's because Dorie, when she implored her friend Martine for the ingredients and instructions of her favorite mousse, was handed a Nestlé chocolate bar: All of the information was on the back.
5. CARAMELODY
Crème Caramel = Sugar + Milk + Cream + Eggs + Vanilla Extract
Okay, you daredevils: This one's for you. It's the most challenging dessert in our quintet because you have to make caramel and custard and endure a 12-hour chilling period. And once that's all squared away, you must then invert the crèmes and cross your fingers that they slide out of the ramekins in good shape. If that doesn't make your heart rate increase, might I suggest bungee jumping?
But the results are worth it: a quivering pudding with a waterfall of caramel that sweetens every bite. To take the recipe a step further, infuse your cream — with crushed cardamom pods, orange zest, chopped coffee beans, Earl Grey tea leaves, or fresh herbs — before you begin.
Monday, February 6, 2012
Made in China 长安一号 (Beijing) -
As mentioned in an earlier post, after several Peking Duck adventures of mine during a short work stay in Beijing, I've come to the conclusion that some of the most raved about ducks there, or for that matter even those being trashed by the media or bloggers alike such as Quanjude 全聚德 , turned out to be rather more of the same in the end. Sure Made in China 长安一号 may be often mentioned on everyone's lips as the no.1 Peking Duck in Beijing or in the world. But Dadong 大董烤鸭店 with their super-lean roast ducks naturally can't agree with this generalisation before putting up a fight. And then there are some existing establishments or late comers also in the scene. My duck served in Made in China was not entirely roasted nor sliced to perfection in the end. In fact, their sister restaurant in Macau's Beijing Kitchen 滿堂彩 made me a more crispier yet moister, flavourful duck than here and that was carved better! Which is the other way around with Jason Bonvivant's visits of the same restaurants, so it shows they must all have a consistency problem of some sorts?! This rating is therefore purely of this particular visit. May be on another day, it will fare better?
Entrance
Duck Plate #1 / 3 - Skin from the Belly
Nouveau style Peking Ducks, served in Macau, Hong Kong or Beijing, are often recommended to be sliced up into 3 ways. Firstly, the crispy belly skin should be dipped into caster sugar and eaten by itself. This was more crunchy than crispy, but quite fat. Overall, pretty good ~ 7.5/10
Condiments -
Entrance
Fruit Wood open oven for roasting Ducks,
as is expected in most duck shops in Beijing
Pu-Erh Tea -
Very good, Made in China really takes care of their connoisseur's tea selections ~ 8/10
Appetizer of Young Vegetables -
Very good for cleansing effect ~ 8/10
Appetizer of White Beans -
A bit boring, don't understand it's role here ~ 3/10
A bit boring, don't understand it's role here ~ 3/10
Open Kitchen -
..seems to be the theme in most Hyatt's I've visited.
Here, pastry chef is making my next pancake dish.
..seems to be the theme in most Hyatt's I've visited.
Here, pastry chef is making my next pancake dish.
Black Truffle and Scallions Pancake -
To be honest, I really regretted ordering this. It is dense, has little truffle taste (and if any, it's only truffles paste). I also wonder where the scallions went. Totally forgettable and I should have ordered another dish to try ~ 3/10
Chef Carving away on my Duck -
fresh from the fruit wood roasting oven
fresh from the fruit wood roasting oven
Duck Plate #1 / 3 - Skin from the Belly
Nouveau style Peking Ducks, served in Macau, Hong Kong or Beijing, are often recommended to be sliced up into 3 ways. Firstly, the crispy belly skin should be dipped into caster sugar and eaten by itself. This was more crunchy than crispy, but quite fat. Overall, pretty good ~ 7.5/10
Condiments -
Cucumber, Beijing Winter Leeks, Minced Garlic, Hoisin Sauce, Sugar.
The stand out was the Hoisin Sauce, which was not overly sweet but slightly smoky
with depth.The sauce served with Peking Ducks, is sometimes what distinguishes it between it and its competitors, and this was definitely within Top 3 I've tried ~ 8/10
Mandarin Crepes -
Fairly dry and floury, a little thick. Almost like a Tortilla.
I don't mind both chewy or doughy types of crepes, but this was so dry, you can see it has curled upwards in a funny manner. Definitely could be improved ~ 5/10
I don't mind both chewy or doughy types of crepes, but this was so dry, you can see it has curled upwards in a funny manner. Definitely could be improved ~ 5/10
Duck Plate #2 / 3 - Pure Meat & Duck Head
This is meant to be eaten alone dipped into the garlic mince and hoisin sauce, or could also be put into the wraps. Unfortunately sigh, this was quite dry, even though this was carved from a Whole-Duck rather than from Half-a-Duck. It was also quite bland in both duck or marination taste. I was quite disappointed with this outcome ~ 6/10
This is meant to be eaten alone dipped into the garlic mince and hoisin sauce, or could also be put into the wraps. Unfortunately sigh, this was quite dry, even though this was carved from a Whole-Duck rather than from Half-a-Duck. It was also quite bland in both duck or marination taste. I was quite disappointed with this outcome ~ 6/10
Duck Plate #3 /3 - Meat from Mostly Duck Back and Part of the Thigh
This fared slightly better than above, but was still dry and didn't taste much of anything. It was also sliced way too tiny compared to every other restaurant, which exacerbates the dryness even more. The skin wasn't very crunchy nor crispy either. Look, I'm nit picking here, this was probably acceptable, but when touted as the top Peking Duck in the world, I think it failed to deliver. It is certainly not within the Top 3 Ducks I've had in say Macau or Beijing or anywhere in the world. May be Top 10 at most ~ 6.9/10Pancake Crepe with Fillings
Lovely Interior -
Pity about the Duck and the food on this visit
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